The hem is also shorter to not hide shoes

In the remake of Casino Royale last James Bond played by Daniel Craig (out November 17), the spy of her gracious Majesty made new infidelity English tailors. In 1962 for Dr. No, Director Terence Young had appealed to Anthony Sinclair, his Savile Row tailor, to achieve the wardrobe of Sean Connery. On the screen, in thriller from Russia (1963) and operation Thunder (1965), as in private life, the Scottish actor became one of the most famous customers of the tailors of Mayfair. The London district was still the real Mecca for the costume on measurement, said bespoke tailoring, to translate the idea of cutting of the model after discussion with the client. Live and let die (1973) to dangerously yours (1985), his successor Roger Moore endorsed him also for his seven interpretations of the role created by Ian Fleming, a variety carved by a large London Maker: Douglas Hayward. The following, George Lazenby and Timothy Dalton, had right to the british style. But Mister Bond is an elegant living with his time. If his defence Fireworks have always taken advantage of recent technological advances, its outfits they also followed the emancipation of men's fashion. And in 1985 for Goldeneye, Pierce Brosnan appears on the screen in trimmed costumes by... Brioni, the Italian claw. It's too much for Savile Row. Since then, the tailors war is raging.

For Umberto Angeloni, CEO of Brioni, the verdict cannot be appealed: "Savile Row is a State in the State closed on himself who has never heard of the evolution of men's fashion." Hugh Holland, Director of the English House Kilgour, argues that "with their jackets in flexible construction Italians dressed as the bags! Add a tip of patriotism in the criticism of each, and you get a beautiful carving of suit! One thing is certain: the original English of tailor-made. "England is the birthplace of the complete three pieces and any contemporary male wardrobe, confirms the eternal male (editions Könenmann) Bernhard Roetzel.". At the beginning of the 20th century, on draft sections which are laid, copied and reinterpreted throughout the world. And London remains the unchallenged fashion capital of the man, until the second world war. "Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard, Gieves & Hawkes, Henry Pool & Co, h. Huntsman & Sons, Kilgour, French & Stanbury, Rogers & Co or even Wilkinson & Sons, have storefront since the 19th century. Originally, they aimed primarily on the tails, unmilitary or covers, with a waistcoat and trousers made in different tissues but still made in England. Elsewhere, in Italy as in France, the male dress had nor the shape of the costume as known today.

The Duke of Windsor for Ambassador

"Civil uniforms of the 20th century only will continue until the end of the 1930s as the holding of all businessmen", continued Bernhard Roetzel. And the Duke of Windsor will be the first global Ambassador: "in his trip around world undertaken prior to his coronation in 1936, the future and ephemeral Edward VIII wears grey cross costumes striped chalk which is noticed by their elegance and their Cup." This full of English way is recognized by its natural and drooping shoulders employing little interior padding, so-called epaulettes. "This armhole seams is more pleasant to carry it because it is more adjusted to the arm," says John Hitchcock, General Manager and head cutter at the tailor Anderson & Sheppard. The size of the jacket is also the top position. His parts fall low on the hips... A cut, in an hourglass, inspired military uniforms and jackets of rider. Indeed, two lateral slits of this cross jacket were invented to give ease in position sitting on a horse, and to facilitate access to the pockets of the trousers.

Originally, the English pants also had its own characteristics. Top placed his fork enveloped all hip and belt reported fabric of today was replaced by a mounted, called English, size with adjustable flange back. Hence the need to shoulder straps. The cutting of the leg, it was adjusted to the level of the thigh and did never to hem in reverse. "The style of the british costume, summarizes Hugh Holland, respects the morphology of the human body. It is near the bust and without exaggeration, while Italian is softer in its construction and plays shoulders... It is the difference between the English, who do not get noticed, and the Italians, who are of peacocks and used clothing to the wheel.

Objectively, say that the Italian costume is more contemporary and stylish. According to the modes, it is topped with more or less shouldered for the build. His head of armhole seams is more prominent. The pants monte less top size to emphasize the arching of the back. The hem is also shorter to not hide shoes. It is also less rigid in its interior construction, and its contents are more original, if not less conservative. "The Italians have adapted to changes in lifestyles and also learned to work light fabrics to adapt to the southern climate", summarizes Umberto Angeloni.

The best makers of Savile Row

In Italy, this reinterpretation of the English costume began almost as soon as his appearance. "The origins of the tradition sartoriale (sartore means tailor in Italian) in the South of the Italy, written Farid Chenoune in Brioni (editions Assouline) book, back to Paolo Tosti, famous singer and Italian composer in vogue in the England of Edward VII, dressed in the best makers of Savile Row." Then, he sent his used costumes to his brothers and cousins stayed in his village of Ortona. It is unmounting these costumes to find the mythical secrets that anonymous tailors of Abruzzo have perfected their know-how. In the 1950s, the peninsula has also much more sartori than England. "So at this time, South of the Italy is full dolce vita. Very detailed on the chapter of elegance, the Golden youth dresses in tailors of Rome, Naples or Milan, working to offer costumes including construction is lighter and it relaxes more. These images of play-boys will be around the world through film. Italian tailors have the wind in its sails. Some, such as Francesco Smalto, take advantage of this vogue for the sails. In Paris, Camps and Arturo Cifonelli are already. Roman tailor training, the latter completed his training in London before moving to Paname in 1926. Francesco Smalto make in 1962, after a detour via New York, in Harris dressed President Kennedy, to develop. The country of the sportswear, American suits are obsessed by comfort. Even be less chic, their costumes are cut larger than the English for never violating the movement.

Among the first creators to break through in men fashion in the 1970s, the Italian Giorgio Armani has the same concern. This is not a tailor, but it oversimplifies the Cup and mounting of the costumes to manufacture in series. Its commercial success will also the development of ready-to-wear fashion. From the 1970s, consumers amourachent clothing made in standard sizes, in the

detriment of the custom manufacture of tailors which requires patience and many fittings. In London, and Rome, the clientele of the latter is shrinking. In parallel, creators and brands in men's fashion inspired sections of Savile Row for a season, Italian for the following... Although they advocate, globalization trends eventually also fade school and real tailors style differences. "Today, is limited to define Bernhard Roetzel, the English as Italians are able to offer elegant clothes of high quality."

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Ensuring succession

"The profession of tailor is difficult," says Umberto Angeloni, CEO of Brioni. It requires several years of learning. Small workshops. But this corporation has suffered so much of the rise in power of ready-to-wear in the second part of the 20th century that its know-how nearly disappear. "In 1985, this House located in Penne, Central Italy, in Abruzzo at the foot of the Gran Sasso of Italy, decided to invest in the future by opening a school of tailors. The training lasts is four years. For forty hours per week, about 20 young boys in the region learn all the secrets of the trade. Cup making - there are three thousand points the hand in the editing of a Brioni suit-, not to mention ironing forty-two step to give its flawless looks. Each year, the courts are culminating in an examination allowing that the more applied to continue training. In the end, a handful of graduates is hired by Brioni for work in the adjacent workshops - with 1,200 employees - or one of its stores around the world. They will then take the steps of customers for the manufacture of costumes made in the rules of Italian art.

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What costume in 2006

The choice of a cup of costume must take account of trends and the morphology of a person. A model to Dual buttoning Cross (English style) more ICES at a slender silhouette. It will be equipped with two slits back and a reverse sharp and slightly high. Its fabric can be plain or striped. The pants will not reverse feature. The right costume (two or three buttons) has the advantage of well go to all the silhouettes. His backhand should be narrow, a single slot in the dos environment is advocated, and shoulders must be highlighted without exaggeration. More Italian Cup blurring even overweight if one takes care to not choose pleated pants. In recent years, it dominates the trends and is even offered in version button. But fashion changes and the collections of the summer 2007 advocated the return of the Cup inspired by the british style.

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"On measure" and mince

"The term"bespoke"is misused, storm Francesco Smalto. More shops and claws are customers try a template jacket and standard trousers approaching to the best of its size, adjust the lengths of sleeves and hems and propose it to achieve this model fitted into the fabric of their choice. "In the 1990s, multiple advances in Informatics in the manufacture, as well as the transmission of data via the Internet and automation of industrial cutting of tissue actually helped develop services command, known as in provok manufacturing. The main measurements of the client - lengths of the arms and legs, towers of size and bust - are taken into account before the cut of the fabric of the suit and avoid to have to retouch the delivery. "But this is not true tailor-made whose principle is to create a model from A to Z from dozens of measurements," insisted Francesco Smalto, who always makes 1,200 costumes per year in the rules of art. "This craft requires several fittings." It cannot be done remotely. Either the client moves the tailor shop or it comes to him, but it is without comparison with a ready to wear costume which was crudely adapted to the size of the client.

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Son of tailors

If the know-how and traditions of british tailors have always influenced the male fashion designers, more in addition to young talents refer to all of their collection. The oldest of them is the artistic Ozwald Boateng, today Director English of the male line of Givenchy. In 1985, he appropriates point point share the british art. And the challenges by using senior woolens in color... So shocking, old England Cree blasphemy, while the golden boys of the City snapped up his models that change uniforms businessmen oscillating between light gray and dark gray. In the aftermath, others English, such as Joe Casely-Hayford (new artistic director of Gieves & Hawkes), Timothy Everest, Nick Hart or Richard James (in mission in Dunhill), tackle the modernization of the bespoke tailoring. In 2002, the talented Alexander McQueen starts also in human fashion starting with tailor-made. Contemporary-looking models are shaped by the tailor h. Huntsman & Sons where he once learned the art of the Cup. It even says that at this time, the English troublemaker of the catwalks have carved out of costards for Prince Charles and was playing him drag small words in his pockets with the mention "made by Alexander McQueen".

Dries Van Noten, Raf Simons, or Udo Edling also learned the foundations of the profession of stylist with a bit of scissors and needles in a back of men's garment. Born into a family of tailors, Edling masters all rules of Cup to marry well-go, comfort and contemporary look. Since 1995, it is indeed not revolutionize human fashion, but to make the port of the more pleasant costume. Its tapered sections rusent tips of claws, sound cuts and small hidden points. In addition, it was the first fashion designer to prefer the use of Japanese polyesters to traditional woolens. Reserved for the uniforms of the elderly, these synthetic materials to the pleasant touch leave the body breathe and to not offend. Even after several hours folded at the bottom of a suitcase, all costumes found their impeccable fall if, upon arrival, it shall suspend on a hanger for thirty minutes.

American based in Paris, Michael Tapia also belongs to the néo-tailleurs which were retained only the best of tradition. His jackets and coats have shoulders flexible or too round or too square. The reverse of pass there arises just where needed. Some clips repeat the volume size. His trousers have no sewing together for better to draper on the hips. The fabric is maintained by a few secret points along the leg... The origin of the revival of Dior men, Hedi Slimane has also defined his style grammar in relying on the techniques of English tailors "without the academic side." Translate: "clean Cup, simplify its domestic interlinings and ease construction, while retaining the line." In other words, the sum of small hidden details that may seem not much for the softie but that have revolutionized the look of the human fashion. And almost are school in any profession, as well on the tailors of the apparel industry.